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Roof Replacement — every city we serve

Local roof replacement crews across ten Midwest markets. Free photographed inspection, written report, lifetime workmanship warranty, and a person on the phone 24/7.
  • 50,000+ Satisfied Customers
  • Three Generations Since 1947

Free Roof Inspection

Photographed slope by slope. Written report. No obligation.

Sent straight to admin@johnbealroofing.com. Prefer to talk? Call 1-800-564-6232 — answered 24/7.

BBB Torch Award Winner
Lifetime Workmanship Warranty
Family-Owned & Operated
24/7 Emergency Response
Insurance Claim Specialists
Architectural asphalt shingle roof in amber tan on a brick cape cod home — John Beal Roofing

Roof Replacement across Missouri, Kansas, Illinois, Indiana and Kentucky

John Beal Roofing has handled roof replacement work for Midwest families for decades. We are family-owned, BBB Torch Award recognized, and every installation carries a lifetime workmanship warranty. Someone answers the phone 24 hours a day — nights, weekends and holidays included, which is exactly when roofs decide to fail.

Every inspection is free, photographed slope by slope, and written up with an itemized price whether or not you hire us. Pick your city below for the local crew, the local storm history and the direct line to the office that covers you.

Repair or replace: how to tell which one you need

A roof earns a replacement rather than a repair when the failure is spread across the whole system instead of isolated to one spot. One wind-lifted shingle over a bedroom is a repair. Granule loss across every south-facing slope, shingles that crack when they are lifted, and leaks appearing in three unrelated places are the roof telling you it is finished. The honest test is whether a repair can be expected to hold for years, or only until the next storm.

Signs that point to full replacement rather than patching:

  • Age near the end of the material's service life — a twenty-plus-year-old asphalt roof rarely justifies new money in repairs
  • Widespread granule loss — bald patches, and grit collecting in gutters and at downspout outlets
  • Curling, cupping or clawing shingles, which means the mat has dried out and lost flexibility
  • Cracked or brittle shingles that break rather than flex when lifted
  • Multiple leaks in unrelated areas, as opposed to one leak at one flashing detail
  • Soft or spongy decking underfoot, or visible sag between rafters
  • Daylight through the roof deck seen from inside the attic
  • Two or more existing layers, where another layover is neither code-compliant nor wise
  • Storm damage across whole slopes — bruising and creasing rather than a handful of missing tabs

How long a roof should last

Service life depends on the material, the quality of the installation and whether the attic beneath it is ventilated. As a general guide:

  • Three-tab asphalt shingles — roughly 15 to 20 years
  • Architectural (dimensional) asphalt shingles — roughly 25 to 30 years
  • Impact-resistant Class 4 shingles — similar lifespan, with far better hail performance
  • Designer and luxury asphalt — 30 years and beyond
  • Standing-seam metal — 40 to 70 years
  • Single-ply flat systems (TPO, EPDM) — 20 to 30 years on a well-drained deck

Two things shorten every one of those numbers: poor ventilation, which bakes shingles from underneath, and hail, which takes life off a roof in a single afternoon. A roof in the Midwest is frequently replaced for storm damage well before it reaches the end of its rated life.

What a full roof replacement actually includes

A replacement is not a new layer of shingles. It is a rebuild of the entire water-shedding system down to the deck:

  1. Protection and setup. Tarps over landscaping, plywood against siding and windows, dump trailer positioned to protect the driveway.
  2. Complete tear-off. Every existing layer comes off, down to bare decking, because that is the only way anyone can see what the roof is actually built on.
  3. Decking inspection and repair. Soft, delaminated or rotted sheathing is replaced. Anything found gets documented and shown to you.
  4. Drip edge. Metal at eaves and rakes to carry water into the gutter instead of behind it.
  5. Ice-and-water shield. Self-adhering membrane at eaves, valleys and around penetrations, where ice dams and driven rain do their work.
  6. Synthetic underlayment across the field — a stronger, more tear-resistant secondary barrier than felt.
  7. Starter course at eaves and rakes, correctly sealed, which is where wind damage begins when it is skipped.
  8. Field shingles installed to the manufacturer's nailing pattern — nail placement and count are the difference between a valid warranty and a void one.
  9. Valley detail, woven or closed-cut per the system's specification.
  10. New flashing at chimneys, walls, dormers and skylights, plus new pipe boots. Reusing old, rusted or cracked flashing is where most new roofs start leaking.
  11. Ventilation. Ridge vent or the appropriate exhaust, balanced against intake at the soffits.
  12. Hip and ridge caps in the matching product line.
  13. Cleanup. Debris hauled, gutters cleared, the entire property run with rolling magnets for nails, more than once.
  14. Final walkthrough. We look at it with you, and the workmanship warranty is explained before we leave.

The layers, and why each one is there

Decking is the structural skin, usually plywood or OSB, and it is what everything else fastens to. Drip edge controls water at the roof's edges. Ice-and-water shield is a peel-and-stick membrane that seals around the fasteners driven through it. Underlayment is the backup barrier for the whole field. Starter strip gives the first course a sealed edge to bond to. Shingles are the visible wear layer. Flashing handles every place the roof meets something that is not roof. Ventilation keeps the assembly dry and at a sane temperature. Remove any one of them and the system fails at that point, which is why a low bid that skips a layer is not a cheaper roof — it is a shorter one.

Ventilation is part of the roof, not an upgrade

A roof needs balanced airflow: intake low at the soffits, exhaust high at the ridge. Air enters cool, picks up heat and moisture from the attic, and leaves at the top. When exhaust exists without intake — a common shortcut — the system pulls air from inside the house instead, and performance collapses.

Bad ventilation costs you twice. It cooks shingles from the underside and shortens their life, and most manufacturers condition their material warranty on adequate ventilation, so an unvented roof can invalidate the coverage you paid for. In winter, the same defect drives ice dams: escaping heat melts snow high on the roof, and the meltwater refreezes at the cold eave and backs up under the shingles. We assess intake and exhaust on every replacement before a single bundle is loaded.

What decides the price of a roof

We do not publish a price per square, because a number without a roof attached to it is marketing rather than information. What we can tell you plainly is what moves the number:

  • Size, measured in squares — one square is 100 square feet of roof surface, not floor area
  • Pitch — steep roofs need more safety equipment and slow the work considerably
  • Height and access — two- and three-story homes, tight lots, no room for a dump trailer
  • Existing layers — every layer of tear-off is labor and disposal
  • Decking condition, which nobody can price honestly until the old roof is off
  • Complexity — valleys, dormers, chimneys, skylights and every penetration that needs flashing
  • Material selected — three-tab, architectural, impact-resistant, designer or metal
  • Code-required items in your jurisdiction, such as ice barrier or ventilation minimums
  • Gutters, fascia, soffit and siding if the storm or the age of the house took those too

We measure the roof, put the scope in writing line by line, and the estimate is free. Financing options are available if the work is not going through an insurance claim.

Materials, and which one belongs on your house

Architectural asphalt is the default for most homes in our markets: two or more laminated layers, a dimensional look, solid wind ratings and sane cost. Impact-resistant Class 4 shingles are worth a serious look anywhere hail is routine — they are built to survive a steel-ball impact test, and many carriers offer a premium discount for them, which can pay back part of the upgrade every year you own the house. Designer lines imitate slate or shake at a fraction of the structural load. Standing-seam metal costs more up front and outlives everything else, with concealed fasteners and excellent wind and snow behavior. Single-ply membrane belongs on low-slope and flat sections, which cannot shed water fast enough for shingles no matter how well they are installed.

Two warranties, and the difference matters

Every roof carries two. The manufacturer's warranty covers the material against defects, and its term depends on the product line and, frequently, on whether the installer holds the manufacturer's certification. The workmanship warranty covers the installation — the labor, the details, the flashing — and it is only worth as much as the company behind it. Ours is a lifetime workmanship warranty on the roofs we install, from a company that has been here through three generations since 1947.

What voids warranties, in practice: inadequate ventilation, incorrect nailing, reused flashing, pressure washing the shingles, and unrelated trades walking the roof and breaking seals after the fact. Keep your final invoice and warranty paperwork together — you will want both if you sell the house.

Why we tear off instead of roofing over

Putting new shingles over old ones is faster and cheaper, and we do not do it. A layover hides the decking, so nobody knows what is under there. It telegraphs every flaw of the old roof through the new one. It traps heat and shortens the life of the new material. It adds dead load. It complicates every flashing detail. And it caps out fast — codes generally permit no more than two total layers. Tearing off costs more on the invoice and less over the life of the roof.

How long it takes, and what the days look like

Most residential replacements are a one- or two-day job once the crew is on site: tear-off and dry-in on day one, finish and cleanup on day two, with larger or steeper roofs running longer. Weather moves schedules, and we would rather move a start date than dry a roof in ahead of a storm.

Before the crew arrives, do these: move vehicles well clear of the drip line, take pictures and mirrors off walls that share framing with the roof, cover attic storage with sheeting, put away patio furniture and grills, keep pets inside and away from the work, and plan for noise from early morning on. If you have a satellite dish or solar array, tell us in advance so it is handled deliberately instead of discovered mid-tear-off.

Permits, code and inspections

Permit requirements are set by the municipality or county, not by us, and they vary widely across 500+ cities in five states. We pull the permit where the jurisdiction requires one and build to the current code — which can add items your old roof never had, such as ice barrier at the eaves or a ventilation minimum. Those show up as separate line items rather than surprises, and on an insurance job they are frequently recoverable as code upgrades.

Insurance replacement versus paying out of pocket

If a storm caused the damage, the roof may be a claim rather than a purchase, and the process is different: inspection and documentation first, then your claim, then the adjuster, then scope agreement, then the work, then release of the held-back depreciation. If there is no storm damage and the roof is simply worn out, it is an ordinary home improvement and financing is usually the right conversation. We will tell you honestly which one you are looking at — including when the answer is that your roof has several years left in it.

Color, curb appeal and the HOA

Shingle color changes how the whole house reads, and it is genuinely hard to judge from a three-inch sample. Look at full-size boards in daylight against your brick or siding, and look at installed roofs in your own neighborhood. Darker roofs hide staining but run hotter; lighter roofs stay cooler but show algae streaking more readily. If you are in an HOA, check the approved palette before you fall in love with a color, and keep in mind that a roof is a twenty-five-year decision, so the safer choice usually ages better than the fashionable one.

Can a roof be replaced in winter?

Yes, with care. Asphalt shingles rely on a heat-activated sealant strip to bond, and in cold weather that bond forms slowly, so cold-weather work calls for hand-sealing in the vulnerable areas and a crew that understands the material is more brittle in the cold. What we will not do is install in active precipitation or on an iced roof. In practice, winter roofing in the Midwest is a matter of picking the right days, and emergency work gets dried in immediately regardless of season.

Who is actually on your roof

Ask any contractor two questions: who installs the roof, and who answers the phone in February. Storm season fills every market with crews from out of state, and a workmanship warranty from a company that has left the state is a piece of paper. We are a licensed and insured, family-owned company running our own crews out of local offices across Missouri, Kansas, Illinois, Indiana and Kentucky, with 24/7 emergency service, a BBB Torch Award for Ethics, more than 50,000 satisfied customers, and three generations of the same family behind the name.

Every city we cover — all 143

St. Louis — (314) 429-6000

Kansas City — (816) 572-9500

Indianapolis — (317) 726-6000

Springfield — (417) 429-1927

Columbia / Jefferson City — (573) 343-8993

Lake of the Ozarks — (573) 343-8993

Carbondale / Southern Illinois — (618) 549-0800

Roof replacement questions, answered

Tap any question to open it.

How do I know if I need a new roof or just a repair?

Repairs make sense when the failure is isolated — one flashing detail, a few wind-lifted shingles. Replacement makes sense when the problem is spread across the system: widespread granule loss, brittle or curling shingles, leaks in several unrelated areas, or soft decking. If a repair cannot reasonably be expected to hold for years rather than months, it is money spent twice.

How long does a roof replacement take?

Most residential replacements take one to two days on site — tear-off and dry-in the first day, finish work and cleanup the second. Steep, large or complex roofs take longer, and weather can move a start date.

How long should a new roof last?

Architectural asphalt shingles generally last 25 to 30 years, three-tab 15 to 20, impact-resistant Class 4 similar to architectural with far better hail performance, and standing-seam metal 40 to 70 years. Ventilation and hail exposure decide where in that range your roof actually lands.

How much does a roof replacement cost?

It depends on the size in squares, the pitch, the height and access, how many layers come off, the condition of the decking, the number of penetrations and flashing details, the material you choose, and any code-required items in your jurisdiction. We measure the roof and put the scope in writing line by line. The estimate is free.

Do you tear off the old roof or go over it?

We always tear off. Roofing over old shingles hides the decking, telegraphs old flaws through the new surface, traps heat, adds weight and complicates flashing. A layover costs less on the invoice and more over the life of the roof.

Will insurance pay for my roof replacement?

If a covered storm caused the damage, frequently yes. If the roof is simply worn out, that is normally a home improvement rather than a claim. We inspect and document the roof at no charge and tell you honestly which situation you are in.

What is the difference between the material warranty and the workmanship warranty?

The manufacturer's warranty covers the shingles against defects. The workmanship warranty covers the installation — the labor and the details. We provide a lifetime workmanship warranty on the roofs we install.

What voids a roof warranty?

Most commonly inadequate ventilation, incorrect nail placement or count, reused or improperly installed flashing, pressure washing the shingles, and other trades walking the roof and breaking the seal bonds afterward.

Do I need new flashing and pipe boots, or can they be reused?

They should be replaced. Rusted flashing and cracked rubber pipe boots are among the most common sources of leaks on an otherwise new roof, and reusing them to save a small amount is a false economy.

Why does roof ventilation matter so much?

A roof needs balanced intake at the soffits and exhaust at the ridge. Without it, heat and moisture build up, shingles age prematurely from underneath, ice dams form in winter, and many manufacturers will not honor the material warranty.

What are impact-resistant shingles, and are they worth it?

Class 4 impact-resistant shingles are built to withstand a standardized steel-ball impact test and hold up far better in hail. Many insurance carriers offer a premium discount for them, which can offset part of the upgrade cost every year you own the home. In hail-prone markets they are worth pricing out.

Can a roof be replaced in winter?

Yes, with cold-weather practices — hand-sealing where needed and crews who account for shingles being more brittle in the cold. We will not install in active precipitation or on an iced roof, and emergency work gets dried in regardless of season.

Will you replace rotted decking?

Yes. Once the old roof is off we inspect the decking and replace anything soft, delaminated or rotted. Nobody can price decking honestly before tear-off, so it is documented and shown to you when it is found.

Do you pull permits for a roof replacement?

We pull the permit wherever the jurisdiction requires one, and we build to current code. Requirements vary across the 500+ cities we serve, and code-required items appear as line items rather than surprises.

How do I prepare my home for the crew?

Move vehicles clear of the roof line, take pictures and mirrors off shared walls, cover attic storage, put away patio furniture and grills, keep pets inside, and expect noise from early morning. Tell us in advance about satellite dishes or solar panels.

How much mess does a tear-off make, and who cleans it up?

We tarp landscaping, protect siding and windows, haul the debris and run rolling magnets over the property more than once for nails. Cleanup is part of the job, not an extra.

Do you offer financing on a new roof?

Yes, more than one financing option is available for work that is not going through an insurance claim. We will walk through what fits alongside the estimate.

Will a new roof lower my energy bills?

It can, modestly, and mostly through ventilation and attic performance rather than the shingles themselves. A properly vented attic runs cooler in summer and drier in winter, which helps both comfort and the life of the roof.

How do I choose a shingle color?

Look at full-size sample boards in daylight against your brick or siding, and look at installed roofs nearby. Darker colors hide staining but run hotter; lighter colors stay cooler but show algae more. Check your HOA's approved palette first.

How many layers of shingles can a roof have?

Codes generally allow no more than two total layers, and we do not add a second one regardless. A complete tear-off is the only way to inspect the decking and install a full system correctly.

What areas do you serve?

500+ cities across Missouri, Kansas, Illinois, Indiana and Kentucky, out of ten local offices: St. Louis, Kansas City, Indianapolis, Springfield, Columbia / Jefferson City, Lake of the Ozarks, and Carbondale / Southern Illinois. Emergency service is answered 24 hours a day, every day.

Are you licensed and insured?

Yes — licensed and insured, BBB Accredited, a BBB Torch Award for Ethics recipient, family-owned and operated through three generations since 1947, with more than 50,000 satisfied customers and our own in-house crews.

The Best Value Guarantee

Bring us a qualifying written estimate from a qualifying contractor and we will compare it against ours. If we can match or improve the value, you agree to let us do the work. If we decide not to match or improve it, we refund your deposit and pay you an additional $200 — in writing. When Mother Nature's at her worst, we're at our best.

Roof systems compared: life, durability and cost

What we install across Missouri, Kansas, Illinois, Indiana and Kentucky. Service life assumes correct installation and working ventilation — both of which are part of the job, not upgrades.

Roof systemTypical service lifeWind & impactLookRelative cost
3-tab asphalt20–25 yearsBasicFlat, uniform$
Architectural / dimensional asphalt25–30 yearsBetter — the Midwest defaultDimensional shadow lines$$
Designer / luxury asphalt30–40 yearsHigh, impact-rated options availableImitates slate or shake$$$
Standing-seam metal40–60 yearsExcellent wind performanceClean, modern$$$$
Cedar shake25–35 yearsModerateNatural, textured$$$
Slate or tile50–100 yearsExcellent, needs structural capacityHistoric, architectural$$$$$

Ranges are industry typicals, not a quote. Every John Beal Roofing job starts with a free written inspection — family-owned since 1947, our own crews, 500+ cities across Missouri, Kansas, Illinois, Indiana and Kentucky. Get a free inspection or call 1-800-NEW-ROOF.

Call 1-800-564-6232Free Inspection