Step 1: Inspection
Every replacement starts with someone on the roof and, ideally, in the attic. A good inspector checks the shingles slope by slope, the flashing at walls, chimneys and skylights, the pipe boots, the condition of the decking (soft spots underfoot), the gutters and drip edge, and the attic for daylight, staining, mold or frost — signs of leaks or poor ventilation. You should get photos, not just a verdict. If the roof can be repaired instead, an honest contractor says so; our guide to repair vs. replacement explains how we decide.
Step 2: A written estimate that names everything
A real estimate is not one number. It lists the shingle manufacturer and line, the color, the underlayment, where ice and water shield goes, drip edge, flashing (new or reused), pipe boots, ventilation changes, the number of layers being removed, how replacement decking is priced per sheet, permit costs, and the workmanship warranty. Comparing three estimates is only meaningful when they describe the same roof.
Step 3: Choosing the shingle and color
This is the part homeowners enjoy. You choose a manufacturer and line, then a color. Our free shingle color selector shows hundreds of colors from Owens Corning, GAF, IKO, CertainTeed, TAMKO, Atlas and Malarkey on real homes. Ask for physical samples to hold against your brick or siding in daylight.
Step 4: Permit and scheduling
Permit rules are set city by city in Missouri and vary across Illinois, Kansas, Indiana and Kentucky. The contractor should pull the permit in its own name. Scheduling depends on weather and material availability; spring and the weeks after a big hailstorm are the busiest.
Step 5: Delivery and property protection
Materials usually arrive the day before or the morning of the job, often loaded straight onto the roof by the supplier. On install day the crew covers landscaping, protects windows and AC units, moves patio furniture, and positions a dumpster or trailer where it will not damage the driveway. Move cars out of the garage, take fragile items off interior walls (hammering vibrates them), and keep pets inside.
Step 6: Tear-off down to the decking
The old shingles, underlayment and usually the old flashing come off down to the wood deck. If there are two layers, both come off. Tear-off is the loudest, messiest part of the day, and it is also the only way to see what is underneath. Overlaying new shingles on old ones hides problems and can affect manufacturer warranties.
Step 7: Decking inspection and repair
With the deck exposed, the crew looks for rotted, delaminated or soft sheathing, usually near valleys, eaves and old leaks. Damaged boards are replaced. This is the one cost that cannot be known exactly until the old roof is off, which is why the estimate should state a per-sheet price in advance.
Step 8: Ice and water shield and underlayment
Self-adhering ice and water shield goes into valleys, along the eaves, and around chimneys and other penetrations — the places where Midwest ice dams and wind-driven rain do the most damage. Synthetic underlayment covers the rest of the deck. Drip edge goes on along the eaves and rakes to direct water into the gutters and protect the deck edge.
Step 9: Flashing and ventilation
New step flashing at walls, new counter-flashing or reflashing at chimneys, new pipe boots, and new valley treatment. Ventilation is balanced so air enters at the soffits and exits at the ridge. Poor ventilation is one of the most common reasons shingles age early and attics grow mold, and it is often fixed during replacement with ridge vent or added intake.
Step 10: Starter, shingles and ridge cap
Starter strips go along the eaves and rakes, then shingles are nailed in the manufacturer’s nailing zone with the specified number of nails, working up to the ridge. Matching hip and ridge cap finishes the roof. Using the manufacturer’s matched components is part of what qualifies a roof for a system warranty.
Step 11: Cleanup, walk-through and paperwork
Crews run magnetic sweepers across the yard, beds and driveway, clean gutters of debris, and haul everything away. A project manager walks the job, and in many cities a final permit inspection follows. You should receive your warranty paperwork and, where applicable, your manufacturer warranty registration.
How long does a roof replacement take?
Most single-family homes are done in one to two days on the roof. Large, steep or complex roofs, multiple layers, significant decking repair, or weather delays can stretch that. From first inspection to final paperwork, the full process usually takes a few weeks, longer after a major storm.
Replacing your roof with John Beal Roofing
We have replaced roofs across the Midwest since 1947 with our own crews. We are an Owens Corning Platinum Preferred Contractor and a CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster, we offer manufacturer system warranties, and we back every roof with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty. Call 1-800-564-6232 any hour for a free inspection, or see our roof replacement page.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a roof replacement take?
Most single-family homes take one to two days on the roof. The full process from inspection to final paperwork usually takes a few weeks.
Do I need to be home during a roof replacement?
Not necessarily, but someone should be reachable. Keep pets inside, move cars out of the garage and take fragile items off interior walls.
Should new shingles go over my old roof?
We recommend a full tear-off. It exposes decking damage and flashing problems, and overlays can limit manufacturer warranty options.
What is the one cost that can change during a roof replacement?
Replacement decking. Rotted sheathing can only be fully assessed once the old roof is off, so a good estimate states a per-sheet price in advance.
Will a roof replacement damage my yard?
Crews protect landscaping, run magnetic nail sweeps and haul away all debris. Ask your contractor how they protect your driveway and beds.