Roofs do not usually fail in the winter because winter is harsh. They fail in the winter because a problem that existed in October finally got tested.
A cracked pipe boot sheds a summer rain without much trouble. Put an ice dam on top of it and it becomes a ceiling stain in your living room. Everything on this list is something we would rather find for you in the fall.
When should you do a pre-winter roof check?
Once the leaves are down and before the first hard freeze — generally late October into November across Missouri, Kansas, Illinois and Indiana. Leaves matter because gutters cannot be properly cleared until the tree is finished dropping, and a gutter cleaned too early fills right back up.
What can you check from the ground?
Stay off the roof. Binoculars or a phone camera zoom will show you everything on this list from the yard.
- Lifted, curled or missing shingles, especially along ridges, rakes and the slope that faces your prevailing weather.
- Creased shingles — a horizontal fold line means wind broke the seal, even if the shingle is still in place.
- Flashing at every penetration: chimney, sidewalls, skylights, valleys. Flashing failures cause more leaks than field shingles do.
- Pipe boots. The rubber collar around plumbing vents cracks with age and UV. This is one of the most common leak sources we find, and one of the cheapest to fix.
- Sagging anywhere in the roofline, sighted along the ridge from the corner of the property.
- Granule piles at the bottom of downspouts.
- Overhanging limbs. Ice loads branches heavily; a limb that clears the roof in July can be resting on it in January.
What should you check in the attic?
The attic tells you more about your roof than the roof does, and it is the part almost nobody looks at.
- Daylight visible through the decking anywhere.
- Dark staining or streaking on the underside of the decking, which indicates past or present water intrusion.
- Frost or moisture on the underside of the deck on a cold morning — a ventilation problem that will drip during the next thaw and look exactly like a roof leak.
- Damp, compressed or stained insulation, particularly out at the eaves.
- Blocked soffit vents. Insulation pushed out over the top plate is extremely common and it shuts off the intake air your roof needs. Baffles fix it.
- Bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans venting into the attic instead of through the roof or wall. This single defect causes a remarkable amount of winter attic moisture.
- Rusted nail points, a reliable sign of condensation cycling.
Why do the gutters matter so much in winter?
Because a blocked gutter is the starting point of an ice dam. Water that cannot drain sits at the eave, freezes, and builds the ridge of ice that pushes meltwater back under your shingles.
- Clear gutters and downspouts completely — a clear gutter with a plugged downspout is still a full gutter.
- Check that downspouts discharge well away from the foundation.
- Look for sagging sections and loose hangers; ice is heavy and will tear a marginal gutter off the fascia.
- Check the fascia board behind the gutter for soft spots or rot.
More on this in our guide to why your gutters matter year round, and our gutter services.
What should you fix before the first freeze?
In priority order:
- Any active leak. Obvious, but worth stating: a leak does not improve over the winter.
- Cracked or failed pipe boots and loose flashing. Cheap now, expensive in February.
- Missing or creased shingles. Wet, cold shingles do not seal, so replacements installed in deep winter often need to be hand-sealed.
- Gutter cleaning and repair.
- Attic air sealing and insulation gaps, which reduce both your heating bill and your ice dam risk.
- Soffit vent baffles where insulation has blocked intake.
- Tree trimming back from the roof plane.
What does a professional pre-winter inspection include?
Ours is free and carries no obligation. A crew member walks every slope where it is safe to do so, photographs the condition of the field, flashing, penetrations and ridges, checks the attic for ventilation and moisture, and gives you a written report with the photos — whether you hire us or not.
If something needs attention we price it in writing and itemize it. If nothing does, we tell you that too. A roof with five good years left does not need replacing, and we would rather you call us in five years than feel sold to today.
Book a free roof inspection or call 1-800-564-6232, answered 24 hours a day.
Frequently asked questions
When should I have my roof inspected before winter?
Late October into November in the Midwest, after the leaves have finished dropping and before the first hard freeze. Gutters cannot be properly cleared until the trees are done, and repairs seal better in mild temperatures.
What are the most common roof problems found before winter?
Cracked pipe boots, loose or failed flashing, wind-creased shingles, clogged gutters, and blocked soffit vents where insulation has covered the intake. All of them are inexpensive in the fall and expensive in January.
Can shingles be replaced in cold weather?
They can, but asphalt shingles rely on heat to activate their seal strip. Replacements installed in deep winter often need to be hand-sealed, which is why fall repairs are preferable.
Why should I check my attic as part of a roof inspection?
The attic shows problems the roof surface hides: daylight through the decking, water staining, frost from poor ventilation, blocked soffit vents, and exhaust fans discharging into the attic instead of outside.
Does clearing my gutters really prevent ice dams?
It helps significantly. A blocked gutter holds water at the eave where it freezes and starts the ice ridge that forces meltwater back under the shingles. Clear gutters and downspouts are the cheapest ice dam prevention there is.